Eastern European ethnic food preservation and future sustainable food production

Tayisiya Simochko , Nadiya Boyko

Abstract

Today, food is studied as more than a just simple consumer item, but rather to approach more significant issues such as the interaction between globalization and national cuisines (Wilk, 2002). Food is not only the source for life but also has a much deeper meaning, especially in regard to the ethnic aspect of food processing and cooking styles. By studying different ethnical groups' cuisines, we can follow traditions and other aspects of national development. We may also consider that, in the era of high mobility and mass migration, national food often remains the only link to the country of origin and prevents it from becoming orphaned and rootless (Pavlovskaya, 2015).

Today, food is studied as more than a just simple consumer item, but rather to approach

more significant issues such as the interaction between globalization and national cuisines(Wilk, 2002). Food is not only the source for life but also has a much deeper meaning, especially in regard to the ethnic aspect of food processing and cooking styles. By studying different ethnical groups’ cuisines, we can follow traditions and other aspects of national development. We may also consider that, in the era of high mobility and

mass migration, national food often remains the only link to the country of origin and

prevents it from becoming orphaned and rootless (Pavlovskaya, 2015).

Nowadays, ethnic food is also used as a base for national identification and an essential

part of rural touristic development. Numerous studies have shown the growing impact of

gastronomic tourisms (Medina et al., 2018). Following these trends, it’s logical that even

“traditional kitchen” labeling is a vital marketing instrument for popularizing a region,

and its heritage and culture. In addition, there are studies about the positive influence

of local ethnic foods on health, as described in Chapter 11.

Based on the above, it is logical that most countries are now trying to create policies to

protect and promote their national cuisine and traditions. This is often difficult to do, as

some areas have had a longer time developing together within a single country, or in the

case of post-Soviet countries, a single union of nations. After the Second World War, the

new Soviet culinary canons were artificially designed in Moscow and enforced as law

throughout the Soviet Union. Some of the traditional recipes were dramatically edited

for the sake of practicability, and some recipes, of completely unknown origin, were added also. Any interest in culinary heritage was limited to the peasant ethnography,

while the cuisine of the urban middle class and aristocracy being heavily censored

(Belyi and Astrauskas, 2012).

Some areas had longer historical connections, sharing some traditions, and so it can be

difficult to identify where the traditions of one ethnic group differ from another. For

most post-Soviet countries, there were some common stages in the development of

understanding the value of the national and ethnic foods and cuisine. During the Soviet

period, despite the general policy of Sovietization, some active groups of people tried to

save and preserve their ethical distinctiveness, including the culinary heritage, in their

respective countries. However, shortly after the Soviet Union collapsed and there was

free access to the Western traditions and cuisines, the importance of the national culinary

heritage was reduced. For most people, it appeared less important than it had seemed

before 1991. However, after the cultural shock of having free access to previously inac-

cessible foods was passed and this became part of a normalized menu, people again began to look for their traditional food. This process took place at different speeds, and whilesome countries have already created national policies to protect their food culture as a

part of the national and ethnical heritage, others are making the first steps in defining

and proving the originality of their regional and national ethnic foods.

With the revival of traditional food cultures, it has become apparent that the emergence of local foods in some European countries originates in regional cultural histories

and traditional food cultures embodied by particular foods and formulations or recipes

(Holt, 2007). In this setting, the small local producers are more oriented to producing

jams and biscuits, pastries, pies, sausages, and cakes under marketing terms such as “traditional recipe,” “homemade,” “farmhouse,” “cottage,” and “old-fashioned.”

However, what is most interesting, is that there is a link between local food consump-

tion and sustainability. Local consumption reduces food miles and allows non-industrially

processed foods to flourish. Biodiversity is encouraged through extensive or organic

production, and also the landscape and provenance foster cultureenature embeddedness.

The UK New Economics Foundation (NEF) calculated that locally produced food

generates almost twice as much income for the local economy as the same amount spent in a typical supermarket.

Ethnic food is mostly based on local food products and also takes into account season-

ality, which from other aspects positively influences the sustainability of food production.

These processes are actively developing in post-Soviet Baltic countries. In Latvia,

Lithuania, and Estonia, it can be seen more prominently than in other Eastern European

countries, and in some cases, many processes are happening almost in parallel.

The concept of Regional Culinary Heritage was developed and introduced in south-

east Skåne in Sweden and on the Danish island of Bornholm in 1995. In 1996, Culinary

Heritage was introduced as a project within the still existing cooperative Four

Corners (www.four-corners.org, Southeast Skåne, Bornholm, Rugen, and Swinoujscie). €

266 Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Eastern Europe

The project developed rapidly and received considerable interest from businesses and

other regions in Europe. In 1997, therefore, it started to expand to other areas in Europe

(Culinary Heritage, 2019; Jarossova, n. d.) and a special European Culinary Heritage

Network formed (www.culinary-heritage.com). In this network can be found different

food recipes from all around Europe. The members are successfully operating the

network for 13 years. Regional Culinary Heritage is a sign of the quality of traditional

and new food creations that promotes a region’s traditions. One of the culinary heritage

criteria is that prepared meals must contain at least 70% local ingredients, grown in the

region. This also has a comprehensive effect on the local agri-food sector development.

In general, the base of Eastern European foods is grains and crops. Most dishes are

made from barley, rye, wheat, millet, and buckwheat. Rye is still used today to make

dark bread, which is especially common in Russia and surrounding countries. Because

many lakes and water bodies are found in Eastern Europe, fish is commonly consumed.

The cuisine has been greatly influenced by those of Western, Northern, and Southern

Europe. Pancakes, bread, berries, and meat are very important in Eastern European

cuisine also. Cold and hot soups are also hearty dishes. Fruit and vegetables most popular in the region include cherries, apricots, cucumbers, figs, apples, and eggplant. Spices and herbs include peppers, mint, basil, and dill. The climate is also excellent for growing root

vegetables such as onions, garlic, turnips, beets, and radishes. Nuts such as walnuts,

almonds, and chestnuts are essential ingredients too. A characteristic feature of Eastern

European cuisine is the preservation of food. Many methods of food preservation,

such as drying (mushrooms), pickling (vegetables such as cabbage, beets, cucumbers,

lemons), smoking (fish), salting (meat), and alcohol preservation (fruits such as pears

and apples) are used in this region. Goulash from Hungary, Polish pierogi, and Russia’s

borscht (made from beets) are just a few native dishes in Eastern Europe. Bulgarian banitsa and Czech knedliky are also popular.

The Lithuania, Belarus, and the eastern part of Poland share much in their food

culture because of their shared history. However, as was mentioned in the work of Alex-

ander Belyi and Antanas Astrauskas, “Challenged by the globalizing markets, local elites

of present-day Lithuania, [eastern] Poland, and Belarus face the necessity to re-define

their culinary identities, which frequently means that dishes or products labeled “alien”

or tacitly silenced since the late 19theearly 20th centuries, now have to be dusted off and

conceptualized commercially”. Lithuanian culinary canons were deeply integrated into

the national culinary heritage of Belarus and some regions of Poland, but there are

many initiatives to reopen traditional Lithuanian cuisine and also to make it a tourist

attraction. The different areas of Lithuania are filled with unexpected flavors and gastro

experiences. Each regional kitchen in Lithuania has its traditional dishes that differ in

character.

One of the Lithuanian regions promoting its culinary heritage is East Aukstaitija.

Aukstaitija is located in the northeast part of Lithuania, and its unofficial capital is Utena.

Eastern European ethnic food preservation and future sustainable food production 267

The cuisine of this part of the country is known for its simplicity. Rye bread is one of the

most fundamental food products in East Aukstaitija, and is eaten every day for every

mealdbreakfast, lunch, and dinner. Two kinds of bread are traditionaldplain fermented

and scalded. Plain fermented bread has been baked for many centuries or even millennia.

The second kind is a much later invention, dating back only to the beginning of the 20th

century. East Aukstaitija is part of the European Network of Regional Culinary Heritage

(http://www.culinary-heritage.com). Culinary Heritage project East Aukstaitija is run

by Utena county and Svencionys district. Another region of Lithuania famous for its

cuisine is Trakai area, where the Karaims are found. This ethnic group was in 1392 trans-

located from Crimea (330 Karaims families) by Grand Duke Vytautas of Lithuania. Lith-

uanian Karaims have various national dishes. One of the most famous nonritual dishes is

kibinlar (singular: kibin). This is a salty pastry in the form of a half-moon and traditionally

eaten with lamb and onion rings. Lithuania is also famous, similarly to its larger neighbor,

Poland, for sausages and smoked meats. Among the many various kinds these the best

known are Kindziukas (in Aukstaitija region) or Skilandis (in Suvalkija region). The

name “Skilandis” has gained protected status under European Union law in 2010 [Com-

mission Regulation (EU) No 29/2010] (Charzynski and Sahin, 2015).

In general, Lithuania has a well-developed support system for its national cuisine

heritage. Many culinary routes are designed, with projects supported by national funds,

and EU- and state-supported systems. As with most post-Soviet Baltic countries, they are

also included in the EU culinary heritage routes and databases. At the same time, Lith-

uanian national legislation on its national culinary heritage is stricter than EU legislation,

demanding at least 100 years of proven continuity. Together with the other traditional

crafts, they are widely promoted in Vilnius and Kaunas through “Kaziuko” street fare,

“AgroBalt,” “Sea festival” in Klaipeda, an international folk music festival “Skamba,

skamba kankliai” in a traditional fair “Baltramejaus _ ” in Vilnius, and in other regions of

the country.

Similar to other countries in the region, the deep historical background connects

north Latvia and south Estonia. Over time, Estonian and Latvian cuisines have been

shaped by their nature and influenced by the traditions of people of various nationalities,

religions, and social classes. From the 13the16th centuries, parts of Estonia and Latvia

made up a unified country, Livonia, on the Baltic Sea’s shores, with geographical and

economic ties, and similar lifestyles and traditions. The native cuisine of the locals orig-

inated from self-grown, hunted, and caught produce, and wild plants were also used. Due

to the long winters, they developed elaborated skills to preserve products for a prolonged

time. To strengthen the identity of the common culinary heritage by creating a joint culi-

nary route, a tourism brand “Flavors of Livonia” under the project Livonian Culinary

Route, was started in 2017. As one of the project deliverables, a unique platform was

created to described these two nations’ culinary history from medieval times until the

268 Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Eastern Europe present. It illustrates the similarities and differences between the local cuisines based on

local traditions and mainly supports the identity of rural areas in both countries making

it more attractive for foreign and domestic visitors. The focus is on locally grown and

produced food (Livonian Culinary Route - EstLat, n.d.). A similar project, Via Hansetica,

covers the historic Hansa trade corridor and includes St Petersburg to Riga through

Tartu. The route has been extended toward Rakvere and Viljandi in Estonia as well as

toward Vyborg and Pskov in Russia as additional regions.

One of the specific aims of this project is to promote locally grown ingredients in food

preparation and establish strong regional cooperation networks between tourism/cater-

ing businesses and local food producers/farmers.

A sustainable food system is an increasingly important issue, where ’’sustainable food’’

means different things used to balance emerging food issues on various health, environ-

mental, and social concerns. In this context, special attention is paid to local food ystems.

Food security has been a major issue globally and, according to the FAO, it is an issue

on the individual, household, national, regional, and global levels. The paper argues that

the debate is reasonable only if food security policy is based on its capability to deliver

sustainability. The results of research into food self-sufficiency and import dependence

ratio for the main food groups in Latvia in recent years are listed in the present research.

The latest trends of Latvia’s import dependency ratio and self-sufficiency for the main

food products (as consumed by its inhabitants) have been evaluated, where self-

sufficiency levels vary widely between products.

Self-sufficiency of meat and dairy products are operating above the 65% and 85%,

respectively, self-sufficiency levels, compared with cereal products that are nearly

100% self-sufficient. Only 53% of Latvia’s vegetable consumption comes from Latvia,

and fruit production is very low at 12% of consumption.

The Estonian Food 2015e20 program provides practical support to the rural devel-

opment objective of fostering a competitive agri-food supply chain in the country. The

initiative saw 18 different food sector organizations represented (including farmers, food

processors, chefs, schools, and public sector food manager) and come together to devise a plan to boost Estonian produce. A series of projects are being targeted at the Estonian

market, export markets, and school children.

The goals of the Estonian RDP include:

• Enhanced cooperation between farmers, processors, and scientists, implying that

R&D and knowledge transfer are up-to-date.

• Stronger market positions for agricultural producers and processors, implying more

cooperation in producing, processing, and marketing of agricultural products.

• An agricultural sector oriented toward sustainable food production that is competitive,

resource-efficient, and has a sustainable age structure.

However, Estonia is not alone in providing this policy, with similar activities and

strategies being realized in all countries in the Baltic region. Starting as a project in 2002, the BERAS (Building Ecological Regenerative Agriculture and Societies) concept

formed a holistic approach to understanding the food system, and includes three con-

cepts: Ecological Regenerative Agriculture, Sustainable Food Societies, and Diet for a

Green Planet (BERAS (Building Ecological Regenerative Agriculture and Society) e

Diet for a Green Planet EN, n.d.). Diet for a Clean Baltic (DCB) encourages individuals

and communities to eat in a way that supports the BERAS concepts, that is, local,

organic, and seasonal food with a smaller share of meat. Changing their everyday eating

habits can reduce the toxic release of chemicals into the Baltic Sea area land and water

environments, thereby protecting biodiversity and stimulating the local economy.

While the Baltic countries are part of the European Union and the processes there are

deeply integrated with Western European counties, this applies to the legislation and also

to the development of social processes, in Eastern Europe the situation with legislation

and cultural heritage protection and the sustainability of the food production is not on

the same level.

According to the CHOICE project experts, most countries of the Eastern Partnership

have had issues since de-Sovietization, with completion of the construction of national

institutions of independent states and rapprochement within the space of modern Euro-

pean norms and standards of regulation in a wide spectrum of areas. For almost all of these countries, domination of the state in the formulation and implementation of national

policy in the field of cultural heritage is fundamental, while the inclusion of other stake-

holders is very fragmented, inconsistent, and often accompanied by mutual distrust

between the different actors. In almost all countries, government programs reflect a

formal approach to the preservation and development of cultural heritage, but do not

take into account opportunities for cooperation with local communities and nongovern-

mental organizations, showing little attention to the return of cultural heritage to the

current circulation, and taking little account of its social component (Poshevalova

et al., 2017).

In general, the history and traditions of the Belarus kitchen are centuries old. While

from one side, the traditional Belarus kitchen appears to be simple, a mixture of local

products with unusual cooking methods makes the recipes interesting and unforgettable.

Even today, the everyday diet of Belarusian people is generally based on traditional

dishes.

Belarusian cuisine was influenced by two main factors, which are active farming and

the extensive use of local produce and, in common with most countries, some influences

from neighboring countries and migrant settlers. Since the times of the Grand Duchy of

Lithuania the national culinary traditions have been a mix of Baltic, Slavic, Jewish, and

partly German cuisines. At the same time, the Belarusian cuisine is characterized by quite

complicated and lengthy processing of products. This includes such methods as braising,

stewing, baking, cooking, blanching, and roasting, with several of them being used in

some recipes.

270 Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Eastern Europe

Many national dishes require various kinds of flour made from oats, buckwheat, peas,

rye, and their mixtures.

The cultural identification of the Belarusian kitchen is relatively well developed.

Some of dishes are already registered as a part of the intangible cultural heritage of

Belarus. Gastronomical tourism is also well developed, and the country offers a long

list of national and local festivals.

On the national level, the cultural heritage and culinary traditions as a part of this are

protected by the Code of the Republic of Belarus on Culture. This legislative act became

the first codified act in the field of culture in the Republic of Belarus. The area of

historical and cultural heritage is one of the state priorities of Belarus, according to the

statement of the national authorities. As one of the good examples for prioritization of

the culture was the implementation of the subprogram “Historical and Cultural

Heritage” as a part of the state program “Culture of Belarus” starting in 2016 (Legal

Framework for the Protection of ICC, 2020).

Some steps toward identification of the national cuisine differences and similarities in

the border areas were made through the realization of the different transborder projects.

One of the first and a good example is the Bella Cuisine project, 2013e14 (Interakcia,

n.d.). Thanks to this project, cafes, restaurants, and farmsteads from the neighboring

regions of Vitebsk (Belarus) and Latgale (Latvia) can apply new tools for marketing their

traditional recipes to gourmet tourists. Moreover, the Vitebsk region became the first

Belarusian member of the European Culinary Heritage Network. Despite many gastro-

nomic similarities between the two countries, the project aimed to resolve these issues

through the concept of the culinary heritage.

An important action for Belarus also has been the development of the food sector in

general. The total food production, as one of the main sectors of the economy, repre-

sents, together with the agrisector production, 17.7% of national exports (Key Facts

About Belarus, n.d.). The main document for realization of the state policy for this sector

is the cross-sectoral nationwide Doctrine of National Food Security of the Republic of

Belarus until 2030. The main aim of this document is implementation of the state policy

on national food security aimed at improving the provisions for the population with

quality food and its availability for adequate nutrition and a healthy lifestyle through

the development of competitive agricultural production and the creation of socioeco-

nomic conditions for the consumption of food stuffs at a rational level. According to

this document, the main criteria for achieving the goal of developing national food

security by 2030 are set forth as follows: (a) sustainable development and improvement

of the efficiency of the agro-food complex through achieving the volume and structure

of production of crop and livestock products, ensuring a balance between the demand

and supply of the most important types of agricultural products, raw materials, and food-

stuffs; (b) saturation of the domestic market with quality domestically produced foodstuffs

(with an increase in the share of healthy foodstuffs and organic foodstuffs up to 20%); and

Eastern European ethnic food preservation and future sustainable food production 271

(c) increasing the efficiency of foreign trade in agricultural products and foodstuffs (De-

cree No. 962 of the Cabinet of Ministers validating the Doctrine of national food security

of the Republic of Belarus until 2030, 2017).

The food in Ukraine is abundant with history and has a wide array of dishes. Ukrai-

nian cuisine is varied and rich in taste and nutritional value. Its development was influ-

enced by the same factors as the development of its material culture: geography and

climatic conditions, plant cultivation and animal domestication, technological changes,

cultural influences, and economic relations with other countries (Traditional Foods,

n.d.). Ukrainian dishes are influenced by food from Germany, Turkey, Poland,

Lithuania, and Russia. Grains like rye, barley, oats, wheat, corn, and buckwheat are

grown and baked into many different kinds of breads, which have a very special position

in Ukrainian culture. Besides ordinary bread, Ukrainians bake various ritual breads from

special doughs, including: braided bread (kalach), Easter bread (paska), bread with a filling

(knysh), wedding bread (korovai), sweet bread (babka), and egg bread (bulka). Many kinds

of pastries are popular: turnovers, doughnuts, strudel, poppy-seed rolls, sweet buns,

tortes, layered coffee cakes, honey cake, rolls, and cookies. Ukrainian bread, with its

many variations, has become quite famous.

Besides the dishes made from cereals, that have been traditional since ancient times on

the territory of Ukraine, the cuisine is rich in vegetables, roots, dairy products, and

different kinds of meat and fish. Desserts include cakes, cookies, and sweet breads, which

are often made with honey and fruits including blueberries, cherries, and plums.

Nowadays, it is very important for Ukraine to make steps toward self-identification of

Ukrainian culture. As with most of the post-Soviet countries, Ukraine is struggling,

because of Russian imperial policy. An example is the long story with the identification

of borsch, which both countries claim as one of the examples of the national culinary

heritage. In 2020, the traditional culture of cooking Ukrainian borscht will be included

in Elements of the National List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Ukraine. The

understanding of the importance of traditional cuisine has increased lately, not only

within the private initiatives but also on the level of the national institutions.

Recognition of the cooking traditions, old recipes, and manners is supported by the

National Ministry of Culture and actively financed through national programs, such as

Ukrainian Cultural Foundation. Despite Ukraine acceding to the Convention for the

Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2008 [Law of Ukraine “On Ukraine’s

Accession to the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage” of

March 6, 2008 N 132], and in 2013 an Expert Council on Intangible Cultural Heritage

under the Ministry of Culture of Ukraine was established, the processes are still progress-

ing very slowly. So far, most of the protection instruments are missing or incomplete,

while the tradition of cooking is protected through the mechanism of the intangible cul-

tural heritage, but this is limited to the tradition of food processing itself but not the rec-

ipes or ingredients themselves.

272 Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Eastern Europe

Mostly, the processes of Ukraine culinary heritage recognition are going through an

upstream policy, where different private initiatives and NGOs are working on creating

the basis for the identification and future cataloging process. These initiatives generally

are financed through different granting programs, different EU financial mechanisms,

and private initiatives. Especially actively EW the transborder areas, where more EU

financial possibilities are available and the experience of the EU countries is learnt

from. The recognition of the importance of the local kitchen and differences in traditions

and products used are also seen as a part of the tourist attraction policies. This can be seen in the new touristic attraction routes, so-called “wine and taste roads,” which have started

under an EU-financed project. One of the private initiatives is led by the Ukrainian chef,

Yevhenii Klopotenko, who for the last two years has worked on an expedition with the

aim of exploring traditional Ukrainian culinary heritage and making it popular and better

known. As with many other specialists in this sector, he is convinced that most Ukrainians

are unfamiliar with the richness of Ukrainian traditional culinary heritage, as in other

post-Soviet countries, due to experiences under Soviet Union policies. Another well

known initiative working on popularization of the Ukrainian culinary heritage is

Їzhakultura (food and culture in Ukrainian)dan academic information project devoted

to culinary culture (Yizhakultura, n.d.).

The food and agrarian sectors play extremely important roles in Ukraine and repre-

sent around 40% of Ukrainian exports. However, so far only some steps toward future

sustainable food production in Ukraine have been made. On the other hand, agriculture

is not only important to produce food, but also to develop the rural areas of Ukraine.

According to the position of the EBRD, FAO, and Central European Initiative, Ukraine

has the potential to feed much more of the world’s growing population. During

2020e22 the FAO Country Programming Framework (CPF) is contributing toward

five priority areas: development of the agri-food production chain and market access

with a strong focus on support for small-scale farmers and value chain development;

contribution to the sustainable management of natural resources; contribution to land

reform; development of Ukraine’s sanitary and phytosanitary management capacity;

and improvement of school nutrition, providing recommendations for strengthening

the sustainability of school nutrition as a broad state policy (Sustainable Food Systems

for Food Security and Nutrition, 2020, pp. 1e3). There are many different projects

and initiatives working with the aim of increasing the safety of Ukrainian food produc-

tion and developing the instruments and mechanisms for active farming and develop-

ment of the sustainable farm performance and supply to preprocessors.

The largest county in the region is Russia, which includes also some territories of

North Caucasus. Historically, the foods in Russia have been based on crops that grow

in cooler climates including root vegetables, grains, and cabbage. During the reign of

Eastern European ethnic food preservation and future sustainable food production 273

Peter I, he had a French chef working for him. This was when the Russians started to

serve meals with courses, rather than all at one time. From the rule of Peter I to 1917,

when the Russian Revolution started, it was common for wealthy Russian families to

have a French chef.

The great influence on the culinary heritage relied on a pech’ or oven. The oven had

two compartmentsdone for slow cooking and the other for quick baking. The pech’

also heated the homes of the peasants, and therefore occupied a central spot in the

main room of the house. Traditional dishes include roasted meats, vegetables, soups,

and stews. A staple of the Russian diet is dark, heavy bread. It is not uncommon for a

family of four to eat three or four loaves of bread a day. Also popular are bliny (thin pan-

cakes), and a variety of savory and sweet pies called either piroghi (large pies) or pirozhki

(small pies). They are usually filled with fish, cheese, jam, cabbage, mushrooms, chopped

hard-boiled eggs, or meat. The possibilities are unlimited. These pies are served alone or

with soup at lunch. Hot sweetened tea, called chai, is served frequently from a samovar

(large brass boiler) that heats water and steeps the tea leaves to form a concentrated

mixture. In general, the bases for the national kitchen of the simple family were cabbage,

flour, eggs, mushrooms, and dairy products.

The culinary heritage of Russia is also highly influenced by religion, as in other

Orthodox Christian counties, with religion prescribing a lot of fast days during the

year, resulting in a culture to containing a lot of fish dishes and lean food.

They are some issues with the preservation of the culinary heritage of Russia, as it is

not well presented on the national level. Russia has also not ratified the UNESCO

Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Still, there are some

private initiatives working toward the preservation and popularization of Russian culi-

nary heritage. In 2014, the main market players, such as the National Association of

Manufacturers and Suppliers of Regional Products, Federation of Restaurateurs and

Hoteliers of Russia, and National Guild of Chefs of Russia signed a memorandum on

the development and popularization of new Russian regional (local) cuisine and

authentic domestic regional products. The border areas are also actively involved in

the regional processes for the authentication and preservation of the culinary heritage.

One of the Russian specificities is a significant territory, with many nationalities living

within it, including in the European part the territories of the North Caucasus Federal

Republics and Tatarstan.

Almost all the national cuisines of the North Caucasus are based on dishes made from

lamb, beef, and poultry. Each of them boasts unique sour-milk products and delicious

cheeses. This region has great touristic potential, both because of the incredible nature

and hospitality of its inhabitants. The variety and differences among the Caucasian tribes

are broadly reflected in their culinary culture.

274 Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Eastern Europe

The cuisine of Tatarstan is more oriental than European. Kazan cuisine, which has

absorbed the culinary traditions of the Bulgars, Tatars, Russians, and the influence of

the East and Europe, is rich in a wide variety of dishes from everyday dishes to the festive

table. To this day, not only have the wonderful recipes of the national cuisine been pre-

served, but also the cordial hospitality of the people that has existed for centuries remains.

All dishes can be divided into the following types: liquid hot dishes, second courses,

baked goods with unsweetened filling (also served second), baked goods with sweet

filling served with tea, dainties, and drinks (Tatar Cuisine, n.d.).

As for the other countries in the region, the issue of sustainable food production is also

a moot point for the Russian agrarian and food market. However, this has been taken

into account so far only in the priorities of export-oriented Russian businesses, realizing

the new conditions for ensuring its competitiveness, while the state and state bodies do

not pay sufficient attention to this topic, still considering the problems of sustainable

development on a residual basis. At the same time, sustainable agriculture is understood

by Russia primarily from the point of view of national sovereigntydensuring food

securitydbut this task has not yet been solved very effectively (Deutsch-Russischer

Agrarpolitischer Dialogue, 2020).

The fundamental document in the field of promoting sustainable agricultural devel-

opment in Russia is the Food Security Doctrine of the Russian Federation, the updated

version of which was approved in January 2020 (Decree, 2010).

There are many obstacles and limitations to “food safety and stability.” Bureaucracy

and lobbying are among the most important and effective, thus progressive changes are

very slow to take effect. Another challenge is an “evidence-based” approach that requires

deep precise and uniformed analytical tools, commonly accepted terms, and approved

documentation. Awareness is a very important issue in this regard, and we hope this

book might bring more light to the subject to be urgently focused on and discussed.

The mentality also needs to be calculated; we used to consume food with no understand-

ing of its national and global value. All the prominent initiatives, even announced “num-

ber one priority”dwith recognition and disseminationdthere remains fragmentation of

knowledge and skills, which cannot really reach the critical mass to achieve the over-

arching goal. Very often, even the best and most brilliant projects with the same goal

as that described in this chapter’s title unfortunately usually are not finally completed

due to a lack of continuing financial support, and thus the developed ideas are not applied

or implemented. A lack of continuity often leads to the start point again and again.

The fragmentation caused by the enormous amount of multidisciplinary approaches

barely meet the common key expectations since these multifaceted actions rather needed

to be done not in parallel but in a coherent and complementary way.

To succeed, the ambitious goals for a sustainable food system have the following

necessary demands: (1) harmonization and (2) integration.

The first steps along this path, including the Global Harmonization Initiative (work-

ing on the basis of independent experts’ opinions) (Global Harmonization Initiative

(GHI), n.d.), in particular other national and international initiatives such as INFOOD

(INFOODS: FAO/INFOODS Databases, n.d.), European EuroFIR and Joint Program-

ming initiatives (Joint Programming Initiative on Agriculture, Food Security and Climate

Change, n.d.), or national technology platforms such as “Food for Life,” which are

integrated into nominal ETP or EU cluster initiatives (The European Online Hub for

Industry Clusters, n.d.) and the recently started national campaigns such as the creation

of national mirrors to the EU “Food Drink of Europe” (Food Drink Europe, n.d.), might

be the preferred examples to follow to reach this goal.

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